Itinerary: A winter weekend in Montréal
This article was published on December 18, 2023.
The beautiful snow, the twinkly lights, the city sights: Montréal in winter is breathtaking. Whether you’re into outdoor fun like ice skating, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, the culinary and culture feast of MONTRÉAL EN LUMIÈRE and Nuit blanche à Montréal or the dancy electronic beats of Igloofest, Montréal proves its snowy season is worth planning for. You’ve got three days in the city? Here are three neighbourhoods to visit and their respective must-sees.
DAY 1 – Old Montréal
Old Montréal’s dreamy setting will set your heart aflutter, but it’s so much more than cobblestone streets and beautiful historic buildings. The old city is also a hub of forward-thinking culture and entertainment, plus a dynamic food scene that will have your taste buds singing.
Ready to rise and shine with a delish coffee in a swanky setting? You’re going to the oh-so Instagrammable Crew Collective & Café, a former 1920s bank that’s all sleek marble floors and stunning vaulted ceilings. Sit back on the plush sofas and sip your coffee or crack open your laptop in this spectacular coworking space. The smaller but no less stellar choices of Café Paquebot or Le Petit Dep are also excellent ways to kickstart your day.
A good starting point for any old city visit is on its cobblestone streets, particularly Saint-Paul and De la Commune, which are chock a block with unique shops. Looking for an art update for back home? These streets are excellent go-tos for art galleries, not to mention artisanal ware and designer finds.
Lunchtime will be coming up soon, so walk west along Saint-Paul to the inviting Olive et Gourmando for delicious sandwiches and decadent pastries. Bonus? You can pick up some very cool kitchen wares and more at their next-door boutique. Le Cartet, a little further north on McGill Street a combination gourmet shop/restaurant is another excellent choice, with cozy communal tables that get everyone chatting.
Your afternoon plans are the avant-garde Phi Centre where you can tap into a bubbling, vibrant hub of thought-provoking installations and interactive art exhibitions. And you absolutely can’t miss Montréal’s crown jewel, the stunning Notre-Dame Basilica, which faces the beautiful Place d’Armes. Go there to stare at its gold-starred ceiling, gilded columns and stunning stained-glass works. Be sure to book a ticket for the AURA immersive light experience, a truly bedazzling experience that shines the light – literally – on the some of the basilica’s best-kept secrets.
For dinner, get splurgy with a heated dome on the rooftop of the William Gray Hotel (how cool is that?). Feast on a delectable full-course meal as you gaze out at the dazzling Place Jacques-Cartier, the magnificent St. Lawrence River and the Grande Roue de Montréal, wheeling and twinkling against the night sky.
Wrap up you busy day with some soothing me-time at the Bota-Bota spa. This ferryboat turned upscale temple of well-being offers a sublime thermal water circuit, and its views of the snowy Old Port and the sparkling skyline are phenomenal.
DAY 2 – Downtown
Downtown Montréal is busy and bustling, so there is no shortage of things for you to see, do and discover, daytime and night. With businesses, shops, cafés, restaurants and bars all commingling here, you’ll understand why it’s the place to be for Montrealers and visitors alike.
Early birds (and even later birds) will love the luscious breakfasts served at Marcus at the beautiful Four Seasons Hotel. If you’re not a full-on breakfast type, a cappuccino from Café Myriade on Mackay, an espresso at Caffettiera or Iranian tea at Café Aunja will definitely hit the spot.
Next up, make your way to nearby Sainte-Catherine Street and explore the gazillion boutiques along this 11-km commercial artery. Along the way, be sure to pop into downtown Montréal’s department stores like Simons, Holt Renfrew Ogilvy, Centre Eaton and Hudson Bay or head below to explore the shops of the sprawling Underground City. Just look for the signs that say RESO, French for “network”.
Hungry after all that shopping? Try the succulents salads and sandwiches at Vasco da Gama, a lovely Portuguese eatery, or go French bistro chic at Henri Brasserie inside the iconic Birks Building. (Do pop in for a quick peek at the gorgeous jewellery.) The tucked-away and beautiful Café Parvis behind the divine St. James United Church close by is another superb noontime option.
Get your afternoon culture fix with a trip to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, Canada’s oldest art museum is home to some 45,000 paintings, sculptures and more in five interconnecting pavilions. In between or after your visit, stop by its sleek Beaux-Arts Bistro for a pick-me-up snack and coffee, or just to take a breather. And don’t forget to pick up a unique gift from the museum’s very discerning M Boutique and Bookstore before leaving.
Come dinnertime, head to Escondite on Drummond Street for spot-on margaritas and mouth-watering Mexican food and arty/funky/colourful interior. Or will it be a delectable wine and appetizer kind of evening? Walk west or hop the métro to Place-des-Arts and head north to Pullman wine bar on Parc Avenue and settle in for excellent glasses and a cosmopolitan crowd.
If you still have energy at the end of the evening, head back south to the interactive and immersive outdoor lighting experience of Luminothérapie in the Quartier des spectacles. You can also go for a sweet (and free!) evening skate at the Esplanade Tranquille skating rink, which offers rentals onsite.
DAY 3 – Rosemont-Petite-Patrie and Hochelaga-Maisonneuve
Montréal’s east end offers up plenty of big and small surprises for visitors and Montrealers alike. This former working-class district offers, crowned by its iconic Olympic Park, offers an abundance of indoor and outdoor activity.
Breakfast is going to start in the light and airy spaces of Station W in the Angus Shops with choices like hearty breakfast sandwiches or yogurt/granola combos and delicious lattés. Weekends, it offers a brunch menu that includes the sublime “Oeuf à la turque”, which includes grilled labneh, halloumi, dill, a poached egg, sweet potatoes and toast. So. So. Good.
From there, head east to the spectacular Space for Life by foot, bus or métro (almost equal time options). Canada’s largest natural science museum complex in Canada includes the Botanical Garden, Planetarium, Biodôme, Biosphère and Insectarium. You won’t have time to do everything because it’s gigantic, but let’s pick two for this Montréal visit.
First stop will be the five dynamic ecosystems of the Biodôme, where you’ll see everything from brightly-coloured parrots to tawny lynxes to playful penguins in their recreated natural habitats. After, get your green on at the lush Botanical Garden; this mood-boosting marvel is home to 10 exhibition greenhouses with plants from around the globe, and it’s beautiful!
Famished after all that flora and fauna? Head south to Ontario Street to devour the savoury slices on the menu at Heirloom Pizza. Other lunch options include the deliciously inventive Hélico Café or a succulent sandwich from the Arhoma bakery. So yummy!
Since you’re at the commercial heart of Hochelaga-Maisonneuve, make it an afternoon of browsing the mouth-watering Maisonneuve Market, where you can pick up gifts for your foodie friends. Extend your browsing pursuits along Promenade Ontario for home deco wares, funky kicks as well as vintage and designer finds.
Dinner plans will take you north back up to Rosemont-Petite-Patrie at Rose Ross on Masson Street, where you can feast on gourmet market cuisine and excellent wines in its very charming bistro setting. And since we like choice, there is also yummy Cuban/Mexican fare and drinks at the tiny Mojito and Margarita next door, or delicious Indian cuisine at Le Super Qualité on Bélanger Street a little further north.
Rebecca Sellers
Hailing originally from the big country skies of Manitoba, Rebecca adopted Montréal over 20 years ago after living in Québec City and France as a student. When she is not writing, translating or teaching English, she can be found pedaling the city’s bike paths, strolling the streets in search of hidden gems, and striking up conversations with local merchants, creators and folks in the neighbourhood.